Old Worlder Ally Contingent

There is still an allowance of 30 more Halberdiers in the Oldworlder Ally Contingent. When I ordered the last time with Black Tree Design, the order took several months. The guy from customer support did a great job, was very friendly and helpful, and in the end asked for a couple of packs they would choose some from for an apology - I received all I mentioned. Very nice.

So these models will be painted up as Bretonnian Halberdiers. The command groups I ordered from Mirliton. The result will be two units of 15, which will together with the 20
An der Fähre Village Guard
be the 50 allowed by Warhammer Armies.

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I removed the cast on flags from the Mirlition models to replace them with brass rod.

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When test placing the models, I reckognized that the Mirlition are noticably smaller than the Black Tree ones :( This won't do.

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Luckily, my lead pile included some more models from Black Tree's 100 years war range. I used some knights on foot for the unit leader and standard bearer. I had enough Halberdiers to fill out the unit to 16, but only in the later round helmets. As I have one unit in earlier rim helmets, I had to convert two models. First I cut off the helmets.

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With Instant Mould and plaster I cast two helmets and glued them on.

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For the bases I used metal ones from Products for Wargamers. On the underside I numbered them with a Proxxon Precision drill FBS 240/E so that deploying the units will not be a puzzle game each time.

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The standard bearers got a pole from brass rod and all the models were based. The only thing missing now are two instruments to attach to two models. I am not sure which I will use (horns, drums, ...) and if I will buy some or do them myself.

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Do you have any suggestions for instrument sources or DIY articles?
 

symphonicpoet

Moderator
Fife and drum could be fairly easy. Horn and drum only slightly more complicated. You could make a drum from green stuff easily enough: roll a ball and press it flat at the right thickness and you'll have a slightly kettley drum, bulging out at the sides. You might then roll it in a circle to give it flatter sides, if you wished. That would leave a concave spot on top and bottom, but this won't necessarily be a problem. You could let it cure and then spread a little GS over the top and flatten it out and then roll the edge up a little to act as a drum head and hoop. This will solve the dish problem tidily if you want a cylindrical drum. A fife could be little more than an appropriately painted piece of thin rod. If you want a trumpet or horn twist it in an appropriate shape and add a cone to one end and a tiny half ball to the other to act as a bell and mouthpiece. You can do this with a touch of patience, even if you're new to the GS game. Just remember to let the worked shape cure before adding the next piece. Patience wins the day. Work a small piece, let it cure a day. Work another small piece, let it cure. It takes patience. Multiple projects to do small steps on concurrently wins the day.
 
The rank and file models of the first unit are done. As their equippment comes from non-industrialized craftsmen, I wanted quite some variety in the unit, which I tried to achieve with a very sophisticated system:

+ The models are numbered in the bottom of the base to make sure they align well. I placed them in a random manner without looking at the bottom as shown.
+ I painted the quilted armour down the three columns in three different browns.
+ I painted the legs of each rown in one colour.
+ With the leg colour, I painted three models diagonally starting in the next row.

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This way I tried to ensure the most random colour distribution.

For the clothes, I used the information in [this post](http://1000footgeneral.blogspot.de/2012 ... ettes.html) and choose the winter palette.

After adding the static grass, I placed the models in their designated places and enjoyed the random distribution of colours among the unit members :)

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Chico":1gtaapzg said:
Subedai":1gtaapzg said:
I agree with Chico. He is a man of refined taste indeed.

I am you know, I love a fine wine with my brown sauce laden Bacon roll :)


Watch my other thread with the buildings, the tavern that will be build will indeed have this meal on the menue. You are welcome for a free visit (excluding beverages) :)
 
The next unit(s) will be Bretonnian Knights. The models are all Black Tree, a mix of their 100 Years War and Fantasy ranges. The bases are again from Product for Wargamers.

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The knights are all prepared for basecoating. I exchanged the shields from the fantasy models for the same as from the historical knights, to have a unifying element.

Most lances were good to work with, slight bends could be eased out. From some of the historical models though, the lances were very bend and quite thin - looking at them askew bend them again. So I decided to replace them with brass rod.

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mubo":3pt6cfdp said:
Wood grain is a really nice effect- how is that done?

I used the same wood colors as on the other models.

  • 70.872 Chocolate Brown
  • 70.879 Green Brown
  • 70.821 German C. Beige WWII

My usual approach is to basecoat with chocolate brown, paint broad stripes with green brown and then thin stripes with beige inside the green brown - breaking the pattern here and there so it looks more organic.

With the shields I also basecoated in chocolate brown. I then used black ink between the boards of the shield. This was followed by a drybrush of green brown. Finally, I painted thin highlights of beige following the sculpted grain.

Voila :grin:
 

mubo

Member
KingOfTheLeadPile":1zriqmwk said:
mubo":1zriqmwk said:
Wood grain is a really nice effect- how is that done?

I used the same wood colors as on the other models.

  • 70.872 Chocolate Brown
  • 70.879 Green Brown
  • 70.821 German C. Beige WWII

My usual approach is to basecoat with chocolate brown....
Voila :grin:

Thanks!

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
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