Captain Crooks
Member
Oldhammer Tutorial Series Vol. 1
HOW TO MAKE A SQUAT BIKE IN 5000 EASY STEPS.
PART 1: THE BIKE
Parts List:
1. Squat Head.
2. Torso. I've shown a variety there, including a Catachan torso, a servitor torso (with mechanical bit trimmed off) and an imperial guard tank crew torso.
3. Old plastic ork biker. I chose this as the basis for my bike rider as he has cool gloves, boots and a rounded shoulder pad.
4. Large shocks. Part 5 from the P133 sprue (see part 'a' )
5. Space marine bike with front forks removed
6. Space marine bike handlebars
7. Ultramarine symbol (optional part, used as a mounting plate for the gun assembly)
8. Light from the Dark Angels accessory sprue (one sprue has two of these)
9. Parts from the Vindicator sprue
10. 3 wheels. I swapped two small wheels for two bigger ones halfway through making this tutorial, but it's a matter of preference really.
11. Two small pneumatic pistons. Part 2 from the P133 sprue (see part 'a')
12. Large closed piston. Part 3 from the P133 sprue (see part 'a')
13. Arms from the Imperial guard vehicle accessory sprue
14. Gun mount from the drop pod sprue. There is a similar piece found on Razorback and Land Raider sprues.
15. Part of a Land Raider sponson assembly
a. Kotobukiya M.S.G. P133 sprue. These are available everywhere in Japan, but the best store online for them is Hobby Search: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10070173
NOTE: Kotobukiya make a huge range of excellent hobby items, including weapons etc. I also used this sprue to decorate my vehicles and add some round bumps to the shoulder pad of my rider: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10009162
b. Offcut of 2mm plasticard.
c. Plasticard tubing, 2.4mm
NOTE: I have been collecting parts from various bits collections and eBay lots for years, so some of the bits used here are from expensive kits that you may not want to invest in for the sake of one small bike. It's possible you may have pieces that can match or even do a better job than the ones I used - feel free to share your ideas etc
TOOLS RECOMMENDED:
-Scalpel
-Plastic cement glue
-various files
-metal ruler
-pin vice drill
-fine grain sandpaper (1000, 1500, 2000 grit)
ASSEMBLING THE BIKE:
STEP 1: After you have chopped the front forks off, glue your bike halves together. You might notice my extremely messy glue application - it's not because I am a cack-handed gretchin mekboy assistant, but because plastic cement can act as it's own filler if you use a lot of it. The plastic melts and forms a gooey slop that will dry and become... plastic! When it is fully dry (takes a few hours, i usually leave it for a day) it can be sanded down into a perfectly smooth surface with a file and some finishing sandpaper - super professional! And all because you made a mess. Well done! (NOTE: this trick only works on flat areas - fine detail will be obliterated so use the technique discerningly)
After that business is done, you need to chop the side exhausts off so we can mount the rear wheels. I score all around the area that needs chopping off, then drive the scalpel through in one smooth motion - the blade will follow the scoring and you should get a clean slice. Tidy it up with a file.
STEP 2: Cut two small 5mm lengths of your plasticard rod. Try and get the ends straight (you may want to cut 6mm and use a file to tidy it up). Cut a piece from your 2mm plasticard that is 5mm by 16mm. Use a file to round off the ends. Get your springed forks and glue them to the stubs where the old ones attached. Glue your 2mm plasticard piece to the bottom of the spring forks and glue the two 5mm tubes to where the handlebars would have gone.
STEP 3: Cut the vindicator parts as shown in the photo. This part is a little fiddly so do it carefully. I seem to have an abundance of these parts but they may not be so available to you, so you may need to find an alternative. If you are clever with a blade, cut some pieces out of 1mm plasticard in a similar shape.
STEP 4: Glue a small wheel together. Cut a 12mm piece of the plasticard tube, once again trying to get the ends as straight as possible. Glue the tube into the hole through the wheel, making sure that 1mm is poking out either end. NOTE: the 2.4mm tube will be slightly too small for the hole - glue it to one inner edge, making sure it is straight. This edge will be facing up towards the 2mm plasticard piece, to ensure the wheel has clearance. Glue the vindicator pieces on either side, making sure they match, and then glue the wheel assembly to the 2mm plasticard piece. Leave it to dry thoroughly so you don't knock it askew.
STEP 5: Glue the handlebars onto the 5mm tubes. Trim the bottom of the light so there is a good amount of surface area to glue it to the top of the fuel tank between the 5mm tube pieces.
STEP 6: Glue together the two remaining wheels (large ones are pictured). Glue them to where the exhaust pipes used to go. If you look inside you can see the axle for the original wheel - try to line up the wheels with that axle, it'll help make them level. Glue the Ultramarine symbol to the top of the old wheel well, right behind the driver's seat. When it is thoroughly dry, drill a small hole in the centre of the symbol - this will be where the weapon mount will sit later on.
Congratulations - you have completed the first part of this tutorial! Stay tuned for part two - the rider!
HOW TO MAKE A SQUAT BIKE IN 5000 EASY STEPS.
PART 1: THE BIKE
Parts List:
1. Squat Head.
2. Torso. I've shown a variety there, including a Catachan torso, a servitor torso (with mechanical bit trimmed off) and an imperial guard tank crew torso.
3. Old plastic ork biker. I chose this as the basis for my bike rider as he has cool gloves, boots and a rounded shoulder pad.
4. Large shocks. Part 5 from the P133 sprue (see part 'a' )
5. Space marine bike with front forks removed
6. Space marine bike handlebars
7. Ultramarine symbol (optional part, used as a mounting plate for the gun assembly)
8. Light from the Dark Angels accessory sprue (one sprue has two of these)
9. Parts from the Vindicator sprue
10. 3 wheels. I swapped two small wheels for two bigger ones halfway through making this tutorial, but it's a matter of preference really.
11. Two small pneumatic pistons. Part 2 from the P133 sprue (see part 'a')
12. Large closed piston. Part 3 from the P133 sprue (see part 'a')
13. Arms from the Imperial guard vehicle accessory sprue
14. Gun mount from the drop pod sprue. There is a similar piece found on Razorback and Land Raider sprues.
15. Part of a Land Raider sponson assembly
a. Kotobukiya M.S.G. P133 sprue. These are available everywhere in Japan, but the best store online for them is Hobby Search: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10070173
NOTE: Kotobukiya make a huge range of excellent hobby items, including weapons etc. I also used this sprue to decorate my vehicles and add some round bumps to the shoulder pad of my rider: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10009162
b. Offcut of 2mm plasticard.
c. Plasticard tubing, 2.4mm
NOTE: I have been collecting parts from various bits collections and eBay lots for years, so some of the bits used here are from expensive kits that you may not want to invest in for the sake of one small bike. It's possible you may have pieces that can match or even do a better job than the ones I used - feel free to share your ideas etc
TOOLS RECOMMENDED:
-Scalpel
-Plastic cement glue
-various files
-metal ruler
-pin vice drill
-fine grain sandpaper (1000, 1500, 2000 grit)
ASSEMBLING THE BIKE:
STEP 1: After you have chopped the front forks off, glue your bike halves together. You might notice my extremely messy glue application - it's not because I am a cack-handed gretchin mekboy assistant, but because plastic cement can act as it's own filler if you use a lot of it. The plastic melts and forms a gooey slop that will dry and become... plastic! When it is fully dry (takes a few hours, i usually leave it for a day) it can be sanded down into a perfectly smooth surface with a file and some finishing sandpaper - super professional! And all because you made a mess. Well done! (NOTE: this trick only works on flat areas - fine detail will be obliterated so use the technique discerningly)
After that business is done, you need to chop the side exhausts off so we can mount the rear wheels. I score all around the area that needs chopping off, then drive the scalpel through in one smooth motion - the blade will follow the scoring and you should get a clean slice. Tidy it up with a file.
STEP 2: Cut two small 5mm lengths of your plasticard rod. Try and get the ends straight (you may want to cut 6mm and use a file to tidy it up). Cut a piece from your 2mm plasticard that is 5mm by 16mm. Use a file to round off the ends. Get your springed forks and glue them to the stubs where the old ones attached. Glue your 2mm plasticard piece to the bottom of the spring forks and glue the two 5mm tubes to where the handlebars would have gone.
STEP 3: Cut the vindicator parts as shown in the photo. This part is a little fiddly so do it carefully. I seem to have an abundance of these parts but they may not be so available to you, so you may need to find an alternative. If you are clever with a blade, cut some pieces out of 1mm plasticard in a similar shape.
STEP 4: Glue a small wheel together. Cut a 12mm piece of the plasticard tube, once again trying to get the ends as straight as possible. Glue the tube into the hole through the wheel, making sure that 1mm is poking out either end. NOTE: the 2.4mm tube will be slightly too small for the hole - glue it to one inner edge, making sure it is straight. This edge will be facing up towards the 2mm plasticard piece, to ensure the wheel has clearance. Glue the vindicator pieces on either side, making sure they match, and then glue the wheel assembly to the 2mm plasticard piece. Leave it to dry thoroughly so you don't knock it askew.
STEP 5: Glue the handlebars onto the 5mm tubes. Trim the bottom of the light so there is a good amount of surface area to glue it to the top of the fuel tank between the 5mm tube pieces.
STEP 6: Glue together the two remaining wheels (large ones are pictured). Glue them to where the exhaust pipes used to go. If you look inside you can see the axle for the original wheel - try to line up the wheels with that axle, it'll help make them level. Glue the Ultramarine symbol to the top of the old wheel well, right behind the driver's seat. When it is thoroughly dry, drill a small hole in the centre of the symbol - this will be where the weapon mount will sit later on.
Congratulations - you have completed the first part of this tutorial! Stay tuned for part two - the rider!