GW Technical paints

Asslessman

Member
Yesterday night, after almost finsihing an old terminator demon hunter, I considered adding some oxidation on the armour (which is mainly painted in old metal). Has anyone tried the "nihilakh oxide" ?

Any tips or how to's, mistakes to avoid with this sort of stuff?
I'm also intersted in advice ont the other piants of the range.

Thanks in advance.
 
I can't get Agrellan earth to work, I know that much. There must be a trick to it but all i get is powdery dirt. With the oxide, I water it down heaps on a palette and apply it like that - it dries in the cracks and leaves flat traces on the surface. You can do a couple of layers to build up the effect. I've not experimented a lot but it's not a bad effect for the amount of time it takes (I.e. none).
 

Asslessman

Member
OK, does this mean you apply it roughly or do you concentrate on recesses and special spots where water hence oxidation would be the most likely to occur?
 
I splash it on wetly and let gravity do the work. I just make sure it's very watery and build up slow. I'd show an example but i think my son is asleep on my phone :s
 

ardyer

Member
Captain Crooks":5dr69kl7 said:
I can't get Agrellan earth to work, I know that much. There must be a trick to it but all i get is powdery dirt. With the oxide, I water it down heaps on a palette and apply it like that - it dries in the cracks and leaves flat traces on the surface. You can do a couple of layers to build up the effect. I've not experimented a lot but it's not a bad effect for the amount of time it takes (I.e. none).

The first batch of the earth apparently doesn't work and gw will replace it. That's what I'm getting anyway.
 

ardyer

Member
Asslessman":2xgadx87 said:
Yesterday night, after almost finsihing an old terminator demon hunter, I considered adding some oxidation on the armour (which is mainly painted in old metal). Has anyone tried the "nihilakh oxide" ?

Any tips or how to's, mistakes to avoid with this sort of stuff?
I'm also intersted in advice ont the other piants of the range.

Thanks in advance.
I'll have advice later this morning...I've fir a meeting with some attorneys in an hour but after that I'll type up my thoughts.
 

Suber

Member
ardyer":18i7ex0s said:
I'll have advice later this morning...I've fir a meeting with some attorneys in an hour but after that I'll type up my thoughts.

Never speak of your thoughts after meeting an attorney! :?
 

cheetor

Member
I havent used the Oxide paint yet, but the Ryza Rust and Tyhpus Corrosion are a good, simple fix for some things. I used the corrosion on the feet of these Mantic miniatures:

mauler01a.jpg
rainmaker02a.jpg


I used the corrosion and the Rust on these "Ferro Beasts" (it was a speed paint job, I got the three fully painted in half an hour).

ferrobeasts3.jpg


I got the Agrellan Earth to do its thing by lashing a fair bit on, but too much causes other problems. I havent used the other paints much yet.

GW put up Youtube tutorials about each of the new technical paints. I found them useful (and I normally avoid online painting tutorials).

http://youtu.be/yw3iLEW1P2o
 

Just John

Moderator
Excellent, I picked up a pot of that rust at the weekend to rustify some orc armour and was wondering what it would turn out like.
 

ardyer

Member
Suber":1qnzie9d said:
ardyer":1qnzie9d said:
I'll have advice later this morning...I've fir a meeting with some attorneys in an hour but after that I'll type up my thoughts.

Never speak of your thoughts after meeting an attorney! :?

Hazard of the job ;)

Okay, so here are my thoughts,and I don't know all the names so I shall refer to what they do.

Blood--ignore, the Tamiya Clear Red method of doing blood is superior.

Rust--too thick for my tastes and better stippled instead of drybrushed. It will definitely require mixing with other shades of red-brown to achieve a good effect. It would have been better if they released 3 shades instead of one.

Corrosion--I found this to be interesting stuff. It adds texture, so it's not purely a grease effect, so I'd keep it off anything that would kept clean, like dwarfs and loyal space marines. I also recommend thinning it, but at varying levels per coat to achieve a more natural effect. This stuff definitely has it's uses, I just haven't figured them all out yet ;)

Verdigris--Love it! This is the easiest way to do quick verdigris that I've found. I thin it a little, but not much. I do tend to mix with other whites/greens/turquoise as well as the vallejo game color verdigris as well. But for table top standard stuff, it's fine by itself. I highly recommend it.

Snot-Didn't buy it as I don't like the color and I have my own way of doing the same effect.

I did this Ogre to test out the Rust, Corrosion, and Verdigris effects:


 

Asslessman

Member
I'll have a look at the tutos on their site, thanks for the tis (I should have figured this out by myself :oops: ).

i don't really get the use of the typhus corrosion and rust. From what I've seen from the rust at my local hobby shop, it's a very thick orange that enhances the chalky aspect of drybrush. How does th ecorrosion differ from a standard wash?

EDIT : OK thanks Ardyer, I agree ith the 3 tone rust, I tend to favour making dots with 3 tones from dark brown to orange rather than drybrush.

I did pick the BFTBG but still don't know why :? :roll:
I'm also considering the agrellan earth but I don't think i'll use it for dry clay soils (more for cracky paint effects)
 

Naagruz

Member
cheetor":3qf7gi9y said:
I got the Agrellan Earth to do its thing by lashing a fair bit on, but too much causes other problems. I havent used the other paints much yet.

That one seems to work exactly like the Ranger line, but with a bit more dry pigment. Have you used Ranger Crackle before?
 

cheetor

Member
Asslessman":28c3ub0s said:
I'll have a look at the tutos on their site, thanks for the tis (I should have figured this out by myself :oops: ).

I usually avoid YouTube things from GW, but those are worth a look. There are distinct methods suggested for each paint. Im sure that we can come up with more as time goes on too.


Asslessman":28c3ub0s said:
i don't really get the use of the typhus corrosion and rust. From what I've seen from the rust at my local hobby shop, it's a very thick orange that enhances the chalky aspect of drybrush. How does th ecorrosion differ from a standard wash?

Typhus Corrosion isnt a wash, its a watery brown paint with a suspension of fine grit in it. I was sceptical regarding its use, but found that it does enhance a certain look in a quick way (Im all about the quick fix, and thats what I am trying to get from these paints).

If you look at the feet on the Marauder Ripper suits that I posted you can see that their feet had TC applied. If you notice where I put the chipped paint (just Mithril Silver) you can see that the TC gave a texture to the area underneath on the foot areas. Its not a look suitable for every surface obviously, but I like the look that it give large armoured feet like those. Plus it was very quick and more or less foolproof to achieve.

Ryza Rust is an orange paint that can be easily used to drybrush, yet isnt pastel. Thats a rarity in miniature paints and makes it worth having just for its own sake, but when used to give a heavy drybrush/overbrush on an Typhus Corroded area it picks up the grit and gives a very worn, heavily rusted look. Nurgle levels of rust rather than Mad Max vehicle level of rust, if that makes any sense.

ardyer":28c3ub0s said:
Rust--too thick for my tastes and better stippled instead of drybrushed. It will definitely require mixing with other shades of red-brown to achieve a good effect. It would have been better if they released 3 shades instead of one.

I dont think that Ryza Rust is really suitable for a slightly rusty look. Its more suited for the sort of rust that might be found on a plough that has been in a damp field for twenty years I reckon. Im not an expert on weathering effects buy a long way, but I do think that the Typhus Corrosion/Ryza Rust combination has uses, just maybe not the more subtle use that you were going for on your ogres blade.

Cool striped trousers BTW :)

Naagruz":28c3ub0s said:
That one seems to work exactly like the Ranger line, but with a bit more dry pigment. Have you used Ranger Crackle before?

I havent. By and large I have avoided weathering techniques for the last thirty years as risky and messy. I tried weathering powders and never got what I wanted eaily and without making a big mess. So when GW offered me a simple, quick fix, dinner-at-McDonalds sort of solution, I jumped at it.
 

ardyer

Member
cheetor":3ljtecow said:
ardyer":3ljtecow said:
Rust--too thick for my tastes and better stippled instead of drybrushed. It will definitely require mixing with other shades of red-brown to achieve a good effect. It would have been better if they released 3 shades instead of one.

I dont think that Ryza Rust is really suitable for a slightly rusty look. Its more suited for the sort of rust that might be found on a plough that has been in a damp field for twenty years I reckon. Im not an expert on weathering effects buy a long way, but I do think that the Typhus Corrosion/Ryza Rust combination has uses, just maybe not the more subtle use that you were going for on your ogres blade.

Cool striped trousers BTW :)

Thanks!

While I agree on the actual intended use of the rust, I still think it needs mixing with other shades of red and brown, even if it's going to be caked on. And I also still think stippling is the best way to apply it get the right texture.

I also the rust probably works best when used with the corrosion.
 

Naagruz

Member
cheetor":1hn0a8wp said:
Naagruz":1hn0a8wp said:
That one seems to work exactly like the Ranger line, but with a bit more dry pigment. Have you used Ranger Crackle before?

I havent. By and large I have avoided weathering techniques for the last thirty years as risky and messy. I tried weathering powders and never got what I wanted eaily and without making a big mess. So when GW offered me a simple, quick fix, dinner-at-McDonalds sort of solution, I jumped at it.
You might want to look at Ranger's Distress "Rock Candy" for quick fix ice. Tons of fun! :grin:
 

Attachments

  • ICY.JPG
    ICY.JPG
    142.4 KB · Views: 1,693

cheetor

Member
Naagruz":217q56zu said:
You might want to look at Ranger's Distress "Rock Candy" for quick fix ice. Tons of fun! :grin:

That does look like fun :) Im not in the market for ice basing and terrain in this lifetime Im afraid, but it does look like an entertaining micro project all the same. Maybe if I can work a freeze ray into an Inquisitorial retinue...
 

ardyer

Member
I just tried my jar of GW's crackle paint. I will suggest anyone using it to glop that on pretty thick.

I am going to let it dry overnight, but I'm going to try giving it ask ink wash and dry brushing a highlight on it tomorrow.
 
Back
Top