Ork skin tones

thequestingvole

thequestingvole

Member
Gentlemen,

I've been looking through the reference material to get some instruction on how to paint ork skintones. The done thing appears to have been - woodland green with black as a base - mid tone with woodland and goblin green mix and highlight goblin green.

Has anyone any advice on replicating this with currently available paints? I mostly use GW and Vallejo. I'm sure I could eyeball something, but I would rather not reinvent the wheel.

I remain, etc

The Vole
 
thequestingvole

thequestingvole

Member
Sorry old chap I didn't see that soon enough.

photo%2B1-784567.JPG


photo%2B2-786933.JPG


I decided to give things a go with what I had. This was the result. Not as nice as Mr. Spooks, but Ok-ish.

Goblin green over white.
Green ink over that.
Drybrush goblin green over that.
Mix foundation (tau something?) with GG and a very light drybrush again.
Highlight with sunburst yellow.

If I get to a shop during the week - I might pick up the colours necessary to try Mr. Spooks way.
 
Ant4812

Ant4812

Member
I can tell you how I do Orc skin but I use Humbrol enamel. I'm pretty sure Vallejo have equivalents for all the colours I use though and Citadel goblin green is almost exactly the same as Humbrol 80.
Starting from a black base I use a semi-dry brush and paint all but the deepest recesses with H.91 'black green'. For a mid-tone I make the brush pretty dry and use H.30 'dark green'. For highlights I use H.80 'grass green', with the brush very dry. For a final touch I usually then mix a small amount of H.24 'trainer yellow' with some H.80 and dust the area, brushing in the direction I want the light hitting it from, with a big soft brush I save for the purpose, very lightly and with the barest trace of paint on the brush.
I can't say anything about inks, haven't used them for years. The Windsor & Newton ones were good as I remember.
As for Gobbo's, I start with H.30, then H.80 for mid-tone and use a (roughly) 50/50 mix of H.80 & H.24 for highlight.
For Snotlings, I undercoat them in H.30; Semi-dry brush in H.80; mid-tone with 50/50 H.80 & H.24; Highlight in straight H.24, with a little white in it.
 
Count Von Bruno

Count Von Bruno

Member
For my Space Orks I work off a black undercoat, then goblin (warboss) green as the first layer, with scorpion (moot) green over that.
Bad Moon/Sunburst (flash gitz) yellow highlights and then thraka green wash, possibly redoing some yellow after that.
 
Blue in VT

Blue in VT

Moderator
I go for a darker green skin to e than the common neon green seen in most old school armies...just a change in tastes I guess...used to use the yellow green back in the day. As always I base coated black then painted the flesh area with Vallejo Panzer Aces 334 German TkCr I (Feldgrau) then washed with GWs Badab black wash (Army Painter dark tone wash is a good replacement for this) then hit it With the 334 again...after that I mixed in some GW Goblin Green for a mid level highlight...mine is ancient...from the early 90's...so i don't know if the color is the same today...and finally straight Goblin Green. I thought about 1 more highlight but felt it would be entering the neon green color I was trying to avoid. That pretty much does it. Here is how it looks

BlueInVtRound8.jpg


I hope that helps!

Cheers,

Blue
 
thequestingvole

thequestingvole

Member
I think I'll stick with my neon green orks, though your work is incomparably fine I must say. Very neat use of colour and line. One doesn't see black lining like that very often. Well done.
 
Subedai

Subedai

Member
Blue in VT, you are now officially my nemesis for posting miniatures I am also working on in a style and quality that I prefer to mine :mad:
 
Hetz

Hetz

Member
I use Vallejo Model Colour for my Orcs. U/coat black, VMC Medium Olive/Black mixture for basecoat, Med Olive midtone, highlight Med Olive/Lime Green mix up to pure lime green. Quite fast to do.

DSC00338-1.jpg
 
Chico

Chico

Member
I use a simple way for Ork Skin, first is Knarloc Green Foundation Paint, Nuln Oil wash, re-layer with Knarloc and the each layer after is Knarloc and Goblin Green mix. ATM on my painting desk is the old Chaos Ork renegade and I'm trying Russian Uniform (924) as the base flesh (Only because i got some by mistake) and it looks good so far.

921015_10151670095525555_757293627_o.jpg
 
Count Von Bruno

Count Von Bruno

Member
Heya Chico, if that's the Chaos Ork I traded with you make sure you post a pic when youre done, Id love to see what you've done with it!
 
Chico

Chico

Member
Count Von Bruno":37ve7x1p said:
Heya Chico, if that's the Chaos Ork I traded with you make sure you post a pic when youre done, Id love to see what you've done with it!
Click to expand...

Yes it is, its finally made it's way to the top of the lead pile lol
 
Count Von Bruno

Count Von Bruno

Member
Hah, cool- while a nice piece I could never sort of find a place for it amongst the lads, appearance wise :?:

Much like the minders firing weirdboy minis, as it happens!
 
Selkie

Selkie

Member
My Recipe uses the old citadel paints - looks like this when finished :



Gretchin Green base coat (painted over a terracotta undercoat)
Wash with Thraka Green
Re highlight with thin Gretchin green
Gretchin Green with a little Vallejo Game Heavy Khaki
Vallejo Game Heavy Khaki
Heavy Khaki and a little bleached bone
Sometimes I add a tiny bit of almost pure bleached bone as a final highlight to make them 'pop' a bit more.

It varys a bit from mini to mini how many stages I do, sometimes I leave it a the Heavy Khaki highlight which I think looks decent enough to game with. ;)
 
Erny

Erny

Member
My recipe:

Pick a green any green, after all orcs vary in green as much as we do in exact shade and tone of beige, you do know that don't you?

Add one of various green inks. Whichever comes to hand or even a wash of watered down paint if inks have all gone walk about.

Layer with original colour.

High light that with original colour plus either white or white and yellow (various).

Keep going getting ever lighter as long as you care to. Remember to make the knuckles stand out. Not subtle but looks OK from a distance.

DSCN1150.JPG


aa1281cf30599319d63565651d50eb8f_zpsc7abd7d3.jpg
 
Willmark

Willmark

Member
Blue in VT":1cz98o90 said:
I go for a darker green skin to e than the common neon green seen in most old school armies...just a change in tastes I guess...used to use the yellow green back in the day. As always I base coated black then painted the flesh area with Vallejo Panzer Aces 334 German TkCr I (Feldgrau) then washed with GWs Badab black wash (Army Painter dark tone wash is a good replacement for this) then hit it With the 334 again...after that I mixed in some GW Goblin Green for a mid level highlight...mine is ancient...from the early 90's...so i don't know if the color is the same today...and finally straight Goblin Green. I thought about 1 more highlight but felt it would be entering the neon green color I was trying to avoid. That pretty much does it. Here is how it looks

BlueInVtRound8.jpg


I hope that helps!

Cheers,

Blue
Click to expand...
I don't think there is a better example of old school painting techniques then Blue's stuff.... all of it.
 
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