High Elf 3rd edition questions....

Mason

Member
Calling all 3rd edition players.
I need some tips and advice before I start assembling the army....

I now have enough Melniboneans to make a start on my army, in fact 3000pts of rank and file are probably enough to last me an eternity....

.....but I do have a few questions to ask before I can make a start on anything other than painting the foot regiments.

First off: Do you think many people would object to playing if they are not on the standard slotta base?
I am thinking of using coins as bases, as I think they look better.
A penny would be 21mm approx and a two pence approx 26mm.
Would basing them on two pences, and therefore increasing their frontage cause serious issues in-game?

Secondly: How big a base for an Elven War Wain?
Does anyone use a 'standard' size for their chariots?
Asking as I will need to scratchbuild/convert the chariots and would like an idea before committing myself.

Any answers would be appreciated.
:grin:
 

Masterwork

Member
Personally I would use slottabases. You'll have to cut the tabs off the figures to mount on coins, which I would find goes against my innate desire to 'save' minis. But hey they are your figures and therefore you can do what you like with them!

Changing the width will mean they are slightly less effective in melee combat as they will make fewer attacks, but also will receive fewer casualties from templates of stone throwers and spellcasters. Also larger units are theoretically harder to manoeuvre.

On my blog you can see I have two elven chariots. I used bases that fit the size of the model, rather than whatever the rules say. At the end of the day I want my figures to look good for the majority of time, which is usually in my display cabinet, not on the wargames table!

Oldhammer is supposed to be a fun genteel exercise and I would have no problem fighting a beautifully well painted army based slightly differently. Whatever you decide just have fun with it.

*shakes head in disbelief that I've told someone it's ok to cut the tabs off rare Melniboneons. Walks away with Manga style tear in my eyes...
 

Golgfag1

Moderator
Masterwork has the right of it, but as he says "their your figures and you have the right do do with them as you will" but your asking the wrong people; if your unlikely to play competitively, it should be the lads & lasses you usually play - consider how would you feel if someone had tweaked their army (in this case - base sizes)to gain a perceived advantage, against you?

As for the size of wain bases - depends upon the number and size of the draft-animals - usually two horse types(side by side) so, fifty mm frontage by at least fifty mm depth plus length of cart, usually - a hundred mm.

Hope this helps

Paul / Golgfag1
 

Masterwork

Member
The next version of warhammer is rumoured to use round bases, so maybe hold off on a decision until you see what the new bases are like?
 

Mason

Member
Thanks for the replies, chaps.
Much appreciated.
:)


I am not seeking any advantage, just aesthetics is all.

I am not too keen on the look of ranked up slotta bases.
I can just about deal with round slottas for 40k but squares dont look right to me.
The figures never sit just right for me.

I intend to make a movement tray for the figures to rank up correctly.
Maybe I should just make trays that hide the slotta.....

I am sorry if it gives anyone the heebie-jeebies mentioning cutting off tabs, but I have done so in the past and wont hesitate to do it again.
I dont intnd to sell them on so it should not bother anyone unduly.
;)

As for chariot bases, going with the right feel suits me as I intend using Pan Tang Tygers to pull them and am not sure if I will go for two or three dragging the cart.
I guess I will just wing this one.

Regarding actually playing: It may not happen as I am the only one in my group with a hankering for 3rd edition WFB, but I thought I would try to stick to the 'norm' where possible.




Now, where are those cutters...?
;)
 

Zhu Bajie

Member
I like basing on pennies, it looks cool and is proper old school.

Regards frontage, if you're bothered about it (and there are some dis/advantages) just work out what it should be if they were based "correctly", and go from there.
 
Masterwork":26ig00su said:
Changing the width will mean they are slightly less effective in melee combat as they will make fewer attacks, but also will receive fewer casualties from templates of stone throwers and spellcasters. Also larger units are theoretically harder to manoeuvre.
This is a valid point gaming wise as was pointed out in the impressive Fimir blog post that although their stats were combat beasts their base size negated it all.

Do the Meliwhotsit chaps actually fit on a 20mm slotta though? They do stand with their legs far apart (especially the archers)
 

weazil

Moderator
Zhu Bajie":2wxsmzct said:
I like basing on pennies, it looks cool and is proper old school.

Regards frontage, if you're bothered about it (and there are some dis/advantages) just work out what it should be if they were based "correctly", and go from there.

I think this is the right answer to the base size 'advantage' - at the end of the day, anyone with a mind will be able to see how many elves are facing off against how many bad-guys.

I personally rate the idea of the round bases too. I think if you were to use CDs for the chariot and large monster bases, they would be very consistent with the coins both in depth and shape.
 

Mason

Member
Thanks for the replies, chaps.
Much appreciated.
:grin:

As I said, I am not looking for any advantage, just trying to get the best aesthetic possible whilst still trying to keep within reasonable boundaries.
As Mahwell Skel mentioned, the posing on the figures makes it pretty difficult to get them to rank up sensibly on square slottas.
I hate the 'everyone looking to the side' look that slottas can create sometimes.
I think that I will get some 20mm washers, so that they still have the same frontage and work on basing them so that they look right whilst still conforming to what ranks of slottas would achieve.
Sabot bases should make things look right in the end.

But, I warn you, I will be clipping those tabs off!
The figures will still be 'saved', as it surely better that they are painted and hopefully used rather than sitting in a box proudly waving their tabs in the air.
;)

weazil":39b2mp9w said:
Zhu Bajie":39b2mp9w said:
I like basing on pennies, it looks cool and is proper old school.

Regards frontage, if you're bothered about it (and there are some dis/advantages) just work out what it should be if they were based "correctly", and go from there.
I personally rate the idea of the round bases too. I think if you were to use CDs for the chariot and large monster bases, they would be very consistent with the coins both in depth and shape.

Round (or possibly oval) bases for the chariots, and later the Dragon and bolt throwers sounds like a good idea too.
I shall go with that one I think.
:grin:
 

Mason

Member
A couple of hundred 20mm washers have been acquired, so I shall see if this plan works next week.
;)
 

Warburton

Member
Mason":3rd2p7fc said:
The figures will still be 'saved', as it surely better that they are painted and hopefully used rather than sitting in a box proudly waving their tabs in the air.

Indeed!

Personally I have based my WHFB stuff on round bases and I just put them in movement trays which keep them at the same width they would have been if they were ranked up on square bases.

Be warned though, you can't use sabot bases as they have gaps between the figures. You need a movement tray with a rim to hold them in the right spot if that makes sense...
 

Mason

Member
Warburton":ogoz7g8a said:
Mason":ogoz7g8a said:
The figures will still be 'saved', as it surely better that they are painted and hopefully used rather than sitting in a box proudly waving their tabs in the air.

Indeed!

Personally I have based my WHFB stuff on round bases and I just put them in movement trays which keep them at the same width they would have been if they were ranked up on square bases.

Be warned though, you can't use sabot bases as they have gaps between the figures. You need a movement tray with a rim to hold them in the right spot if that makes sense...

I have a plan to make my own sabot bases from standard movement trays with no gaps between the figures, just raised areas between the round bases where the corners of 'squares' would be to hold the figures in place.
;)
 
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