Practicing on Reaper

inchmurrin

Member
I decided to do a bit of practice on some Reaper pieces I have in the leadpile before getting back into serious painting. they came in a joblot missing parts but based on 25mm squares and nicely textured greenstuff, cobble for the wizard and ships planks for the pirate. I added the staff and cutlass - from a load of reaper spares in the same lot. I'll flog them off on eBay now. Comments would be very welcome as I could use constructive or otherwise advice.


Domu hunters Moon

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Melissa Wavecutter

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Where do Reaper gets these names Terry Brooks books?
 

King Arthur

Member
Hello!

Do you want comments on the paint jobs? Did you paint them yourself or did they come like this in the job lot?

Cheers!
 
I think you have chosen some colors that go very well with each other, especially for the pirate. The purple of the coat is a "neighbour" color to both the red of the hat and the dark blue of the pants and thus creates harmony, while adding contrast by painting gloves and other details beige. Improvement you could get by focusing a bit more on your technique of applying the coats of paints. Which sort of paint do you use?
 

inchmurrin

Member
I use My ancient Citadel and Coat d'armes as they seem closest to what I'm used to with the occassional ink or wash.
 
Okay, I use a mix of Coat d'Arms and new Citadel paints, so pretty much the same paints :)

One thing that I know can be tricky, is that some of the paints are very thick while others are very thin. The thicker they are, the more easily they cover but usually needs to be diluted a little on a palette to prevent them from creating a gritty surface. The thin ones, on the other hand, make a smooth surface but will usually need more layers in order to cover. It takes some practicing to find out how this works best.

When using washes, I used to just apply the wash on all the areas of (say) the armor at once. But I hadn't thought of the fact that gravity (depending on the sculpt) in some cases will make a lot of the wash flow out of the recesses. So now I position the model in a way (usually with the front of the model facing up) so that gravity will keep the wash in the recesses, then I apply the wash, wait for it to dry, and then plaace the model in the opposite way (front down) and apply the wash on that side. This way the effect of the wash will work better.

I hope the advices make sense and that they are useful to you :)
 

inchmurrin

Member
Thanks for that I never really considered gravity and will bear it in mind. I use that modern development a wet palette and it has improved my control of paint consistency no end.
 
Oh, another thing when using washes: It is very useful to add a little dishwashing soap in order to break the surface tension. This will help prevent the wash from leaving a colored rim around the washed area when is dries. You don't need much - just touching the dishwashing soap with a finger and then touch the wash will usually be enough to break the surface tension.

I think I will try and make a wet palette too. All too often my highlight mixes dries before I've finished applying them :)
 
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