Advice sought on using washes

I'm nearing completion of my unit of 5 minotaurs for the July challenge, and I decided to try painting two of them with washes. I'm not happy with the result - very blotchy. So could someone advise me how to better use washes, specifically skin washes? My aim in using washes is to cut down on painting time but retain a decent enough look to the figure.

I'm currently using the citadel wash reikland flesh. I assume I should have used several light washed rather than one heavy one?

Also, if speed is a priority, should I be aiming to coat the figure in a single flesh tone, wash it, then highlight the raised areas with the same flesh tone?

One technique I'm quite fond of is building your own "citadel washes" by mixing a dark colour, PVA glue and water, the basic recipe is one drop of paint (bestial brown if I'm washing fleshtone for example), one drop of PVA glue and 8 to 10 drops of water, this will feel like citadel washes but you can add more PVA or put less depending on how much you want the paint to only go in the deep areas.
You can even add some badab black or devlan mud in the very deep spots for extra shading at this stage.

For metals I will go on a boltgun drybrush and then a mix of brown and black inks + same amount of pva glue and 8-10 times of water.

Here is an exmaple of minis painted with this technique (except for the horns)

The method can be extended to nearly any colour. you just have to highlight a bit with the thinned base colour and with another lighter colour and Bob's your uncle.

Some people dislike adding PVA glue because it is said to turn yellow with time and to be sensible to water, I will just say I don't know if this is true but I've never experienced the matter after using it for 5 years now...

oh and since speed is the priority here, I do prefer this technique to dipping since you don't have to matt down anyhting and its more versatile, the only thing is you have to prepare a batch of the mix everytime. If you are painting batches like I do, it proves very time efficient...

EDIT : I forgot to mention that this technique has the advantage (it is one for me at least) of matting down normal inks and getting rid of their shiny effect.
I can post photos this WE if you want since I'm currently painting the flesh parts and bone parts for my entry in the July challenge with this very technique.

Asslessman":3hm2r2t9 said:

I can post photos this WE if you want since I'm currently painting the flesh parts and bone parts for my entry in the July challenge with this very technique.

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Thanks, that would be very helpful.

I'll try to take close ups tonight if I manage to then...

For the current site citadel washes, the wash its the second thing I apply. First the basecoat then the wash, then begin highlighting with the basecoat. Depending on how much darker the wash is, I will use it straight from the pot, or thin it with either distilled water or distilled water with a little future floor protector (it has a different name in the UK). The future does the same thing as the pva except tends to add a shine to it. I dull coat after finishing so no big deal for me.

Sometimes, especially on really muscled models, I will only apply the wash in the recesses, almost like black lining.

A very common way to use washes is to do just what you suggest. Base coat (flesh, for instance) and then wash and finally "highlight" with the base coat again. The key here is to use thin paints when you apply the base coat the second time. I often do it like that, and then add another few highlights levels, possibly with more washing inbetween.

It's not a bad idea to thin the washes slightly too... get a healthy dollop up on your palette, soak your brush in water and give it a twirl. You might need to revisit some parts to darken them at a later point, but for the first level of definition on a base coat it might be better and less prone to blotch up on you.

I've found that blotching is caused by the surface tension of the wash. There are some flow control products that you can add to the washes, but the best tip I was given was to mix in a tiny amount of washing up liquid; it breaks up the surface tension and allows it to flow smoothly across the miniature's surface.

Adding water also helps by giving you more control by building up layers of washes rather than overloading with one hit.

Don't know this future floor protector but otherwise, I completely adhere to ardyer's and phreedh's method as well. I also dull coat but I find it harder to work on shiny surfaces for the following steps. It's seems to be no problem for better painters than myself though...
Thinning washes and then lining with a darker wash is definitely a good way too.

I've heard about dish soap too but never tried, I believe it just does the exact opposite of PVA Glue (which for the matter acts as a tensioactive I believe)

PS : I don't want to troll this thread but I'm seriously asking to myself how many products we use for a totally differnt purpose than its original one in this hobby (PVA Glue, Dettol, floor protector, washers,...)

Asslessman":2ur9asuh said:

Don't know this future floor protector but otherwise, I completely adhere to ardyer's and phreedh's method as well. I also dull coat but I find it harder to work on shiny surfaces for the following steps. It's seems to be no problem for better painters than myself though...
Thinning washes and then lining with a darker wash is definitely a good way too.

I've heard about dish soap too but never tried, I believe it just does the exact opposite of PVA Glue (which for the matter acts as a tensioactive I believe)

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In that case, Future is the exact opposite of PVA, as it too acts as a tension reducer

Ooh! Another benefit of washing up liquid is that your models smell pine or lemony fresh!

axiom":3lhbmnrt said:

Ooh! Another benefit of washing up liquid is that your models smell pine or lemony fresh!

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Very fitting for wood elves or bratts, a bit less for orks and nurgle followers